StaSIS Mono 6 Big Brake System Audi A5 B8 08+
(Vivid Racing)
Price: $3,894.99

Nothing screams from behind the spokes like an Alcon-based braking system from STaSIS.What It will do for you:NO MORE FADEHigher heat absorption and dispersion makes for shorter stops turn after turnIMPROVED PEDAL FEELFirm, confidence-inspiring brake pedal because of ultra-stiff calipers,...

StaSIS Mono 6 Big Brake System Audi S5 B8 08+
(Vivid Racing)
Price: $3,894.99

Nothing screams from behind the spokes like an Alcon-based braking system from STaSIS.What It will do for you:NO MORE FADEHigher heat absorption and dispersion makes for shorter stops turn after turnIMPROVED PEDAL FEELFirm, confidence-inspiring brake pedal because of ultra-stiff calipers,...

Vivid Racing - STaSIS 13in Small Annulus Brake Kit Lotus Elise 05+
(Vivid Racing)
Price: $1,294.99

STaSIS Engineering rear brake kit has been developed on the track and tested at the height of competition. Lower Long Term Maintenance Costs Our 2-piece rotor kit makes for a great, long lasting replacement. The same components that we use on our racecars are used in the street kits available to...

Vivid Racing - STaSIS 13in 4piston Mono Front Brake Kit Audi A3 05-06
(Vivid Racing)
Price: $2,794.99

What It will do for you: NO MORE FADE Higher heat absorption and dispersion makes for shorter stops turn after turn IMPROVED PEDAL FEEL Firm, confidence-inspiring brake pedal because of ultra-stiff calipers, differential piston sizing and stainless steel braided lines. Nothing screams from behind...

Vivid Racing - StaSIS Tracksport Rear Brake Kit Audi A4 B6 02-05
(Vivid Racing)
Price: $894.99

STaSIS Engineering?s rear brake kit has been developed on the track and tested at the height of competition.What it will do for you:SHED THE POUNDSLess weight gives shorter stops, quicker acceleration, improved steering feel and handlingNO MORE FADEHigher heat absorption and dispersion makes for...

PostHeaderIcon To Do List for February

Rear Anti-Roll Bar - In our haste last time we left the stock rear ARB off. With the stiffer suspension we really, really need more of the weight transfer in the back so that the front has some bite on turn exit. As it was we would just spin the inside until the steering wheel was straight. LSD - A limited slip would help with wheelspin and was available on some of the R-types. You can get a used LSD from Japan relatively cheap, but you need to tear the transmission apart to swap them out. Castor - Our engine mounts allowed the motor to sit too low. Our quick fix was to space the front x-member down about an inch to help the pulley and transmission clear the radius rods. This screwed up the castor a bit and we think is the cause of the car's "spooky" handling. We can cut the mounts shorter and lift the motor and toss our spacer. Brakes - The Hawk HP+ pads did ok, and I think we can run another race on those pads. I think all we need is some new front rotors and to swap the brake fluid with some ATE 200. Seat - We at the bare minimum need to put in some back support to the cage. We slipped by tech last time by setting the seat all the way back. I think it would also be worth it to get a real race seat. Steering Wheel - A quick release wheel would make getting in and out faster. Shocks - Our stock 88 Civic shocks are no match for our much higher spring rate. I really wanted to do something magnetorheological, but Dick says we'd need 1000W per wheel to activate the fluid if we cant get the coils right next to the shock. Tires - The two sets of tires are now toast. The Hankook Ventus that we were running are discontinued in our size. I went ahead and got Nicks old Toyo TR-1's mounted to one set. I think they have about a day of racing left in them. We'll probably get a set (maybe two?) or Azeni's to mount on the other wheels. Better Fuel Cans - Filling the tank of the Civic is slow and painful. Seems like it took ~5 minutes per can. Remove Weight - Strip out the door/hood/roof/trunk...

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Should I turn ported rotors when installing new brake pads?

I just had new brake pads put on my car and the mechanic said I shouldn't/don't need to turn my rotors because they are heavy duty ported/slotted rotors and I'd be shortening the life of the rotors. Did he scam me or was it good advice? If he scammed me what are the ramifications of using new brake pads without turning the rotors?

Brake Repair, Pads and Turning a Rotor

Red Mountain students Kyle and Nick show you "How To" replace brake pads and turn the rotor.

car cover magazine model Directory

Find Turning Brake Rotors at turningbrakerotors.com
Research, compare, and shop for Turning Brake Rotors. ... a non-directional scratch pattern as a final step after turning brake rotors...

Understanding Brake Rotor Service
Then ask them what is the best way to finish brake rotors? ... Turning a rotor too quickly on a lathe leaves grooves in the surface. ...

How To Process (or Turn) a Brake Rotor | How To Do Things.com
This article will guide you on what is involved in removing, processing (sometimes called turned or resurfacing), and reinstalling brake rotors. It will also cover ...

Composite Brake Rotors
Composite brake rotors have been around since the early 1980s. ... of the center hat must also be clean and rust-free for the rotor to turn true. ROTOR RECALLS ...

EBC Brakes | Automotive Rotor Product Selector | Brake Disc ...
How to correct brake rotor vibration with Pro Cut Lathe ... necessarily cure the problem, the brake rotor will also need changing or turning. ...

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