Lock & Unlock- relays, Starter- relay or diode! What are the specifications on the relays for each components. Car alarm brand/ model is Code Alarm/ CA-670.
You will need a bypass module such as this one...
http://www.bypasskit.com/product.aspx?pr odid=XK01
This will interface the door locks/OEM alarm/door pins/ and passkey 2 bypass to the CA-670.
You will also need a standard 30A relay
this is how you change the start relay on your whirlpool refrigerator. The common symptoms of a bad one is when your freezer stops functioning ...
The video says everything you need to know
Check every single piece of electronic equipment including AC, lights, wipers, doors/windows, radio… (especially on an 83 car).
http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/caveat.html
Doug from BaT:
Bentley manual and an ETKA parts CD are essential, that and either yourself or a trusted mechanic with attention to detail. I have an urS6 Avant (w/mods) and when it is “right” there is nothing better than that 5 cyl turbo well on boost. AAN transplants from the urS4/urS6 into urQs are relatively common and if RS2 mods are added can create a real beast.
For care and feeding see:
http://www.2bennett.com/
http://www.blauparts.com/
For enthusiastic owners see:
http://www.s-cars.org/
http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
number6 from BaT:
The big issue with earlier Ur-Q’s is the early style electrical system and (in particular) fuse/relay panel. Wiring on these cars is undersized for the load of big amp consumers (headlights, for instance), and any amount of corrosion can lead to serious increases in resistance = melted wiring. The fuse panels are often victim to similar failures. These issues, combined with underhood wiring that has gone through 25 years of heat cycling (read: brittle/cracking) and other points of corrosion/failure (tail lamp bulb trays, for instance) lead to these cars getting knocked for being unreliable.
It’s not unjustified, but a new $50 fuse panel will often go a LONG way towards fixing major issues. So will adding additional relays for headlights/auxiliary lighting to remove the stress on the factory harness (IIRC all of the headlamp amperage goes through the dash switch on these cars). A good day’s worth of decoupling connectors/ground wires, cleaning them up, spraying them with DeOxit and then protecting with dilectric grease would be time very well spent. I used to do this on my mid-80’s VW every 9-12 months and would be shocked at the things that would be fixed: a fast blinking rear turn signal, a slightly unsteady idle that would now be glassy smooth.
...